Every fall, RV owners face the same question: should I bring my RV in to be winterized, or do it myself?
At Beckley’s RVs, our service department handles hundreds of winterizations every season — but we know some folks prefer the hands-on approach. If you’re planning to tackle it yourself, make sure you do it correctly to prevent costly damage when spring rolls around.
Here’s a careful, step-by-step guide to help you do it the right way, straight from the pros.
Safety first (read this before you start)
- Use only non-toxic, pink RV antifreeze for potable-water lines. Do not use automotive antifreeze (ethylene glycol).
- Work in a well-ventilated area.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves when handling chemicals and working under the RV.
- Disconnect the RV from shore power before opening or working on electrical components.
- If you’re uncomfortable with any step (e.g., working on the water heater or water pump), stop and ask a professional.
Tools & supplies you’ll need
- Set of basic hand tools (screwdrivers, pliers, adjustable wrench)
- RV water heater wrench or socket (check your model)
- Funnel and syringe or hand pump for antifreeze (or a 12V water pump/blender)
- Wheel chocks and leveling blocks
- Non-toxic RV antifreeze (pink) — amount depends on RV size (1–3 gallons typical)
- Air compressor or water pressure regulator (optional, but helpful)
- Freshwater tank drain tool (if needed)
- Water heater bypass kit (if your RV doesn’t already have one) — recommended
- Towel, bucket, rags
- Pipe insulation or foam for exposed lines (optional)
- Masking tape + permanent marker (labeling valves)
Quick overview (what you’ll do)
- Prepare the RV (park, level, chock).
- Drain fresh water tank, gray/black tanks, and low points.
- Bypass the water heater.
- Flush and pump non-toxic RV antifreeze through all lines.
- Protect appliances (water heater, faucets, toilet).
- Final check & store.
Step-by-step winterizing (detailed)
1 — Park, level, and ensure safety
- Park on a level surface and set the parking brake.
- Chock the wheels.
- Turn off shore power and disconnect.
- Turn off the propane at the tank if you’ll be storing the RV for a long period.
2 — Drain tanks
- Empty the black and gray tanks per your normal dumping procedure. Rinse/flush if desired.
- Drain the fresh water tank: open the tank drain valve and let it empty. Some RVs have a petcock or plug — check your owner’s manual.
3 — Drain the water heater
- Turn off water heater (electric & gas).
- Open the water heater pressure relief valve.
- Remove the drain plug/drain plug (use a water heater wrench or socket). Have a bucket ready — a little water will come out. Allow it to fully drain.
4 — Bypass the water heater
- If your RV has a factory water-heater bypass valve, set it to bypass. If not, install a bypass kit (recommended) so antifreeze doesn’t fill the water heater (saves antifreeze).
- If you can’t bypass, you’ll need extra antifreeze and will pump antifreeze through the water heater as well.
5 — Open all low-point drains and fixtures
- Locate and open all low-point drain valves (sometimes called low-point drains). Drain until only air comes out.
- Open every indoor and outdoor faucet (hot and cold), the shower drain, and toilet to let remaining water escape. Don’t forget exterior shower/hose connections.
6 — Blow out water lines (optional but effective)
- If you own an air compressor and are comfortable using it, use a regulated compressor set to a safe pressure (20–40 psi) and an adapter to blow out water lines. Use a water pressure regulator designed for RV plumbing to avoid damage. Blow until only air comes out from fixtures. Do not exceed recommended pressure.
- If you don’t have an air compressor, proceed to the antifreeze pumping step (it will push remaining water out).
After blowing out the lines, make sure to close all low-point and tank valves. This ensures the antifreeze stays in the system and distributes properly when you pump it through.
7 — Introduce non-toxic RV antifreeze to the system
Two common ways:
A — Using the RV’s city water inlet and a hand pump / pump converter
- Close the fresh water tank drain and shut the fresh water valve.
- Connect a small pump kit or hand pump to the city inlet or install a winterizing kit that fits your fresh water inlet.
- Place antifreeze container (pink RV antifreeze) and pump until antifreeze flows from each open faucet (hot and cold), shower, and toilet. Run the pump until you see pink antifreeze at each fixture. Flush the toilet until antifreeze is visible in the bowl and the black tank gate valve is partially open (to let antifreeze into the toilet and downstream).
- Don’t forget exterior faucets and ice maker lines (if present).
B — Using the water pump and bypass
- With a water-heater bypass installed, remove the inlet hose from the freshwater fill and attach a container of antifreeze to the inlet (or use a suction line).
- Turn on the water pump. It will pump antifreeze through the lines. Walk around and open faucets until pink shows. Start with closest faucets and finish with the furthest.
- Flush toilets several times until pink antifreeze reaches the bowl and fills necessary valve areas.
8 — Protect the water heater and holding tanks
- If you bypassed the water heater, ensure it’s dry and the drain plug replaced (leave the pressure relief valve open slightly for ventilation).
- Add one or two cups of RV antifreeze to the black and gray tanks (after dumping) and flush the toilet once to coat valves and seals.
9 — Final fixtures & appliances
- Run antifreeze through all faucets (hot and cold separately), shower, toilet — ensure pink fluid is visible.
- Pour some antifreeze into all sink traps and shower drains to prevent freezing and protect seals.
- If your RV has an icemaker or water filter, consult the owner manual — you may need to bypass or remove the filter and drain the maker.
10 — Clean up and protect
- Close all valves once antifreeze has been through the system.
- Leave faucets slightly open (or in a position the manufacturer recommends) to allow for expansion and pressure relief.
- Insulate exposed pipes and low-clearance lines with foam pipe insulation if you’ll be in a very cold climate.
- Remove food, electronics, and anything that could be damaged by cold/humidity. Place moisture absorbers inside cabinets if desired.
- Leave interior cabinets slightly open to allow airflow.
Post-winterizing checklist
✅ Parked, chocked, and powered down
✅ Fresh, gray, and black tanks drained
✅ Low-point drains opened and emptied
✅ Water heater drained and bypassed
✅ Air blown through lines (optional but recommended)
✅ Antifreeze pumped through all hot and cold lines
✅ Antifreeze visible in every faucet, shower, and toilet
✅ 1–2 cups antifreeze poured into each drain
✅ Antifreeze added to black and gray tanks
✅ Faucets left slightly open, exposed pipes insulated
Troubleshooting & tips
- If water pump runs but no antifreeze shows up: check for clogs, ensure bypass valves are set correctly, and confirm suction line is sealed in the antifreeze container.
- Smell of antifreeze after the job? Pink RV antifreeze has a mild odor; run a little clean water through fixtures when you de-winterize to clear flavor.
- If a fixture is sputtering after de-winterizing, air is trapped — run tap until steady flow returns.
- Always test a small amount of antifreeze in the toilet/shower fixtures first to confirm it’s flowing; you may need to repeat pumping if some lines remain water-filled.
De-winterizing (quick notes for spring)
- Close all drains and low-point valves.
- Reconnect water heater bypass (or reverse bypass).
- Fill fresh tank, run water pump, and check for leaks.
- Flush lines until clear water appears and run the water heater according to owner’s instructions.
- Sanitize the water system before use (1–2 cups household bleach per 15–20 gallons of water, circulate, then flush thoroughly) or follow the RV manufacturer’s recommended sanitizing process.
Common FAQs
Q: Can I use regular automotive antifreeze?
A: No — automotive antifreeze is toxic and can contaminate your potable water. Use pink, non-toxic RV antifreeze.
Q: How much antifreeze do I need?
A: Most travel trailers and smaller motorhomes need 1–3 gallons. Larger rigs or those with long lines may need more. Buy an extra quart to be safe.
Q: Do I need to winterize the water heater?
A: Yes — drain it and bypass if possible. Pumping antifreeze into the water heater wastes antifreeze and often isn’t necessary with a bypass.
Q: Can I blow out the lines instead of using antifreeze?
A: You can blow out the lines to remove water, but many owners still use small amounts of antifreeze to protect valves, P-traps, and fixtures.
If you’re planning to winterize your RV yourself, take it step by step and do it carefully — it doesn’t have to be intimidating!
If you’d like a little extra guidance or want to make sure you have the right parts and fittings, stop by Beckley’s RVs Parts Store or Service Department. Our team is happy to answer questions and help you feel confident about winterizing your RV the right way.
